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Sometimes it’s impossible to walk away from tenacious Iranian hospitality, especially when there’s tea from a charcoal-powered samovar and unforgettable abgoosht.

Sometimes it's impossible to walk away from tenacious Iranian hospitality, especially when there's tea from a charcoal-powered samovar and unforgettable abgoosht.

There's so much madness on Iran's roads, it's easy to become inured to the outrage. I photograph to remember and verify it was as insane as I thought it was.

There's so much madness on Iran's roads, it's easy to become inured to the outrage. I photograph to remember and verify it was as insane as I thought it was.

In Iran, even strangers shower each other with pleasantries. But behind the wheel, Iranians are lawless and ruthless. I often ask about the reason. These are some of the opinions I’ve gotten.

In Iran, even strangers shower each other with pleasantries. But behind the wheel, Iranians are lawless and ruthless. I often ask about the reason. These are some of the opinions I've gotten.

Trying to get an Iranian driver’s license provides insight into why the country is a world leader in traffic fatalities. No one in Iran takes driver’s education seriously, not even the driving schools. This is a story about my time at a driving school in Mashhad, Iran’s second largest city. ... See more

Trying to get an Iranian driver's license provides insight into why the country is a world leader in traffic fatalities. No one in Iran takes driver's education seriously, not even the driving schools. This is a story about my time at a driving school in Mashhad, Iran's second largest city. ... See more

The Iranian vets exposed to Saddam Hussein’s mustard gas (made with ingredients provided by the West) suffer to this day. Here’s one story.

The Iranian vets exposed to Saddam Hussein's mustard gas (made with ingredients provided by the West) suffer to this day. Here's one story.

Stunning example of globalization: in tiny Iranian village I find Chinese knickknacks and villagers crazy about Korean soaps they watch on satellite television.

Stunning example of globalization: in tiny Iranian village I find Chinese knickknacks and villagers crazy about Korean soaps they watch on satellite television.

Lesson on Iranian culture: never ever say you made mistakes – especially when you’re being setup for marriage!

Lesson on Iranian culture: never ever you made mistakes - especially when you're being setup for marriage!

"You should be petrified when you come here," the man who just climbed out of a hole told me, "because it becomes so obvious that nothing lasts. You come and go, no matter who you are and how powerful you are." Thus began my lesson in existentialism from my two guides on a visit to a complex of historical sites not mentioned in any travel books. ... See more

An ancient wartime shelter tells us Iranians have survived the enemy for thousands of years. Regardless, war is senseless. Let’s set aside the fighting and live in peace, say locals in Sabzevar, Iran. ... See more

Despite the state's best efforts, Farsi is as Westernized as ever because acculturation is a way of life in Iran. Iranians are enamored with all things Western. Tourists quickly discover that from the way the locals greet them in the streets and boldly initiate conversation. Sometimes total strangers ask to have selfies taken with tourists they met seconds earlier.

The furnishing of their homes, the pictures they put on their walls, the brands they put on display at every opportunity, the media they consume, even television news on state networks – much of life here one way or another originates outside Iran. ... See more

Maybe in Quebec, Star Burger would get into trouble for choosing an English name.Here in Tehran, the fast food joint not only gets away with an English name, it pours salt on the wounds of the pu

I kept seeing various versions of the above sign (see photo above) at various inns I stayed at in Iran and wondered about its significance.
It says: “Dearest Guest, The employees of this inn do not use nicotine products.”
So what? Why would I care what the employees do?
Then one night my father c... ... See more

I kept seeing various versions of the above sign (see photo above) at various inns I stayed at in Iran and wondered about its significance. It says: “Dearest Guest, The employees of this inn do n