I wasn’t prepared for the shocking views at Naqsh-e Rustam and I’m glad I wasn’t. I stood there, mouth open and oblivious to our tour’s guide’s explanations, starring at what must be the world’s most stunning graveyard. Persian kings were buried over many centuries, in tombs carved into the side of the rocky mountain and decorated with giant..
“Now you know why Iranians are so proud,” my wife told me after I visited Persepolis today. “This history is why they think they have everything and no one else – the Americans, the Europeans, no one else – compares to them.” I’m tempted to deduce just the opposite, that contemporary Iranians – who don’t..
Vakil Bath is an old public bath turned into a museum in Shiraz, an exquisitely restored window into a bygone era when public baths were more like social clubs for business and politics. Ali Torkzadeh with Saeideh AjilchiAli & Saeideh plan their Iran roadtrips from their home in Mashhad. More about us here >>
Mostafa Rahemi, 80, is an attari (AT-tawry, traditional medicine man who heals using herbs and plant extracts) and a former bodybuilder. His store, filled with yellowing historic photos, is the only one left in an old alley in the ancient Shiraz neighborhood of Ghashoo-Ghashe, near Shah Sheragh Shrine. Rahemi (RAW-hemy) says: “Seven-hundred years ago, back..