One of my greatest pleasures in Iran is what I call alleydiving – just aimlessly walking the old alleys of ancient towns. The best time to do this is early morning and just before dusk, when incandescent lights compete with the dim natural light and create strong contrast for photography.
Today Saeideh and I are in the back alleys of Kashan, one of Iran’s jewels because of its ancient architecture. It’s a particularly good time because it just stopped raining. The air is clear and the asphalt reflective, creating even more opportunities for photos.
Our journey includes watching young men on motorcycles gaping at women. Later I end up in a bakery (in Persian known as a navaii) , my favorite place to watch hard-working decent Iranians serving their neighborhood with nourishment. The nanvaiis always, without fail, welcome a photographer’s visit.
Then I visit a barbershop and get a fantastic haircut from an elderly gentlemen who very typically refuses to say how much I should pay for his service.
Ultimately we end up at the gates of Kashan’s bazaar.